Crossbow Review: SA Sports Fever Magnum Recurve

For this article, I thought we would talk a little archery.  In particular, one itch that I have had for some time, but which I have never gotten around to scratching, is my desire for a crossbow.  I have never owned a crossbow, but I have been fascinated with them for a long time.  So I decided I would finally add one to my arsenal, if I could find a good deal.  Enter Black Friday 2012, a "doorbuster" sale, and a half-price SA Sports Fever Magnum recurve crossbow.

The SA Sports crossbows are marketed by SA Sports, LLC, out of Allentown, PA.  It is my understanding from reading several posts on internet forums that these particular crossbows are of Taiwanese manufacture (if I am mistaken and anyone can provide information on the actual country of origin, then by all means please set me straight.)  The company website ( http://www.sa-sports.com ), while not a fount of information, nor exceedingly easy to navigate, lists a few different crossbows (three compound and two recurves), youth bows, a bowfishing outfit, as well as accessories (strings, cables, arrows, rangefinders, etc.).  The particular crossbow I chose was the Fever Magnum, a recurve design boasting a 175 lb. draw weight and an advertised maximum velocity of 240 fps.  I chose the Fever Magnum for two reasons:  first, the price (a holiday doorbuster sale price of $149.95); and second, it is a recurve, not a compound, so replacing a broken string will not require a bow press (just a strong back).

The crossbow came disassembled in a cardboard box.  Included were the crossbow itself, consisting of the pre-assembled stock/rail (lightweight composite stock and aluminum arrow rail), weaver-style scope rail, the limb (made of compression fiberglass), limb tips (2), string, limb spacers (two plastic and one metal), foot stirrup, open sights (installation optional), as well as the necessary mounting hardware and Allen keys.  Also included were a padded sling with swivels, a 4x32 scope with dual color illuminated multi-reticle, quick detach quiver, bow stringer cable, rope cocking device, a tube of rail lube, and four 16" arrows with field tips.  The included instructions were what I have come to expect from equipment manufactured overseas, so (thankfully) SA Sports has very thoughtfully provided an assembly video on YouTube which made assembly a much easier task, taking less than an hour altogether.  Assembled, the crossbow is about 36" long (with foot stirrup), and 27" wide from limb tip to limb tip.  It weighs close to 5 pounds with the scope, a little over 5 with the scope and sling.  The crossbow is also equipped with an ambidextrous safety that is automatically engaged every time the bow is cocked.

SA Sports Fever Magnum Crossbow

Accessories include quiver, 4 arrows, rail lube,
and rope cocking device

Field Tip on included arrow

Half-Moon nock on included arrow

First impressions:  the crossbow appears to be well-made.  It does not feel cheap, like it is going to fly apart at any moment.  Despite the heavy weight of draw, the rope cocking device maximizes your leverage, seeming to cut the weight in half, making it relatively easy to cock.  The safety engages fully and with an audible "click" each time the bow is cocked, and it is easily disengaged from either side.  The trigger is pretty nice.  Better, in fact, than several of my rifles.  There is just the slightest hint of take up, and it breaks cleanly at what I would estimate to be around six or seven pounds.  The Fever Magnum is lightweight, and comfortable to hold, and the palm-swell on the forearm seems to me to be a nice touch (remember to keep those fingertips below the rail, kids!)  As far as negatives, there is the finish.  On my particular bow, there are some cosmetic blemishes in the camo dip:

Nothing spectacularly bad, but clearly noticeable.  Also, the serving on the string is not centered:

Again, it is not off by much, and probably will not affect the operation of the bow, but it is just one of those little things that illustrates the difference between a top-shelf item and a serviceable, but lesser quality, item.  This clearly is not an Excalibur, but then, it costs about a third or less than even the cheapest Excalibur.  The quick-release quiver I do not really care for.  It adversely affects the balance of the crossbow, and I do not hold out much hope that the release mechanism will withstand much use, as it is all plastic.  Also, the included arrows are not very exceptional, either.  Serviceable, yes...  but that is about all.  Use the money you save buying this crossbow to get some good arrows.  And probably an extra string or two.

While on the subject of arrows, this gives me an opportunity to discuss customer service.  According to the included literature and the company website, SA Sports recommends using 16" 2219 aluminum arrows or 20" carbon fiber arrows.  And that is the extent of the information given on projectiles.  Now, as many of you know, crossbows can be damaged if they are "dry fired":  that is to say, if you draw back the string and release it without a suitable projectile loaded, the strings and limb can be overstressed and damaged.  Now, the same thing can happen if you use a projectile that does not have enough mass, so you should always make sure that you have a heavy enough arrow so as to fall outside of dry-fire status.  Unable to find the minimum recommended arrow weight, I was a little hesitant to just drop in any old 20' carbon arrow without making sure it would suffice, so I fired off an email to SA Sports asking them what the company recommends.  In less than 30 minutes, I had a reply from Mark Ambrose, the company president, advising me that the minimum weight for this particular bow is 350 grains, and that my chosen arrow (Carbon Express 20" with 100 gr. field point for a total of 425 gr.) was well within the limits.  As you may know from my previous reviews, I really respect companies that back up their products after the sale is over.  These are the businesses that continue to see my patronage time and time again.  So, hats off to Mr. Ambrose.

Multi-Reticle

My first outing with the Fever was somewhat of a bust... literally.  Not the crossbow:  no, no, the crossbow did just fine.  Better, in fact, than I had anticipated.  You see, never having shot a crossbow before, I was not sure what to expect in terms of arrow penetration.  So I had gone to my local big box store and picked up an archery target, one made of eight inch thick foam wrapped in heavy gauge plastic sheeting.  Instead of installing the included scope, I chose instead to go with a red/green dot sight I had laying around.  I am just not crazy about the multi-reticle on the provided scope.  I then proceeded to cock the bow using the provided rope cocking device (a Godsend for someone with a bad back), and fired an arrow downrange at the target I positioned 15 yards away.  From the sound, I knew that the arrow had hit the target, but was only barely able to see a dark spot in the upper right of the target (no magnification on the red dot).  So, I reloaded, adjusting the sight a little for elevation, and fired again.  Once more, I knew the arrow hit the target, but could not really see where, so I walked out to the target to check on my accuracy, only to find that the arrows had gone completely through the target!  Luckily, I had placed an old garden hose reel container behind the target to keep it from tipping over backwards from the force of the arrows hitting it.  Not that I should have worried about that, the arrows not only cleared the target, but punched nice big round holes through the side of the heavy plastic reel cabinet.  Just a good reminder to us all:  be sure of your target and what is behind it!

So, after a trip to the local big outdoors retailer, I picked up a Hurricane archery target, guaranteed to stop arrows from high speed bows and crossbows.  After four shots, I had the red dot sighted in, this time with much better success:  the first shot high and left, second a little lower and left, third just left, and fourth center of the bullseye.

These results were with the included 16" arrows.  When I fired the 20" Carbon Express, they shot about three inches lower than the 16" arrows.

Penetration on the heavy Hurricane target was good, too, averaging just over 4.5" on the 16" arrows, and 5.25" on the 20" arrows.  I will set up a bench rest to shoot from, to see just how tight a group the bow is capable of, and post those results soon.  But all in all, I am pleased with the accuracy of this crossbow.

So, the SA Sports Fever Magnum recurve crossbow seems to be a good, solid crossbow for the money.  Especially as a starter bow for someone just getting into crossbow archery.  It is lightweight, has a relatively small footprint for a crossbow, and is simple to operate.  It is a little loud for a bow, but it is also a pleasure to shoot.  Do I think it would be a good bow for hunting?  I will have to spend some more time with the crossbow, to see how the accuracy holds up, and I would like to chronograph it to see just how fast the arrows are moving before I make that kind of decision.  Would I pay the MSRP of $299.95 for it?  Probably not.  But I certainly think it is worth the $149.95 I paid for it.  And one more thing:  I really wish I had not waited so long to get a crossbow...  these things are a lot of fun to shoot!

For More Information:

SA Sports, LLC
1337 N. Nelson Street Unit B
Allentown, PA 18109
Tel: (484) 294-2257
Fax: (484) 270-4699
Email: sales@sa-sports.com

Hurricane Bag Targets
Field Logic, Inc.
101 Main Street
Superior, WI 54880
Tel:  1-800-282-4868
Email:  support@FieldLogic.com

Pint-sized Powerhouse: My Palmetto State / Doublestar 7.5" AR 15 Pistol Project

Addictions come in many flavors:  mine just happens to be gun collecting.  Firearms find their way into my collection for various reasons.  There are some guns that I desire due to their historical significance.  Others, I seek out because they are examples of fine workmanship, exceptional engineering, or both.  Still others have been selected due to their utility for self-defense, hunting, target shooting, etc. -  my "working guns," as it were.  And finally, there are what I consider my "fun guns":  firearms that I simply find entertaining - plinkers and the like.  And my newest acquisition falls into this last category.

I say "acquisition," but that is not technically accurate, as this particular firearm is one that I built from parts.  The first gun that I built completely from parts, actually... an AR 15 pistol.  This particular build has been in the works for quite a while:  I have been picking up pieces here and there for nearly a year. There seemed to be no rush to complete it as I originally conceived of this gun simply as an exercise in "kitchen table" gunsmithing.  However, as recent events have thrust the possibility of new gun control legislation into the spotlight, and with this being an election year, I decided that I should go ahead and finish this gun while I still had the opportunity.

AR-style pistols are nothing new, and you will find them in several different calibers.  For this project, I decided to stick with the traditional 5.56mm chambering, even though you will find many detractors who ridicule the use of this rifle cartridge in such a short barrel.  And to be honest, their arguments are not without some merit.  The 5.56mm cartridge was originally designed to be used in a rifle with a barrel 20 inches in length.  Any less than this length reduces the efficacy of the cartridge.  Now, it seems the majority of AR models on the market today are based on the 16 inch carbine barrel, a length that generally produces adequate ballistics.  As you decrease the length of the barrel, however, not only do you rapidly lose velocity (and hence energy), you also decrease the reliability of the weapon:  the AR direct impingement gas system does not operate as smoothly when it is shortened.  The short barrel does not allow the pressure in the gas tube enough time to act on the bolt in the same manner it would in a longer barrel.  The trick to getting an AR pistol to run reliably requires experimenting with springs, buffer weights, etc.  Thus, the loss of energy (affecting fragmentation of projectiles in the target) and potential loss of reliability are factors that must be considered.

After weighing my options, I decided to stick with 5.56mm for two main reasons:  first, if I am going to have an AR, I want it to be in that caliber, as that makes it compatible with my other AR, and thus parts and accessories can be shared; and second, it allows me the option of running a .22LR conversion kit, thus making this a much more affordable range gun.  And if, God forbid, I should ever have to use this gun in a defense role (it would probably fall way down the list of my options), it would still have enough "oomph" to get the job done.

This build started with an A2 upper that I happened to have lying around, waiting to be assembled.  I really like the look of the A2, with the built-in carry handle...  it is to my mind what an AR-15 should look like (one man's opinion, true, but hey, this is my gun we are talking about).

A2 upper receiver
(image courtesy of ar15.com)

For a lower receiver, I bought a stripped lower from Palmetto State Armory.  Occasionally, you can get a great bargain on these lowers, and I bought mine on sale for $49.99 last Valentine's Day.  A fantastic deal on a fantastic lower.  Note:  when building an AR pistol, it is extremely important that you use either a lower designated as a pistol lower, or a "virgin" lower that has never been assembled as a rifle.  If the lower has ever had a buttstock attached, (even if it is clearly labled "pistol" on the receiver) you may not use it to build a pistol without running afoul of the NFA regulations.  You should always check to make sure that the lower was transferred to you as "pistol" or, (preferably) "other," not "rifle," before using it for a pistol build.

PSA Stripped Lower Receiver
(image courtesy of palmettostatearmory.com)

This being a stripped lower, I required a lower parts kit to finish it.  I decided to go with the DPMS kit, as I had heard good things about them, so this I picked up from Tri-Cities Gun Depot.

DPMS Lower Parts Kit
(image courtesy of surplusammo.com)

As I was assembling a pistol, I decided to go with the Doublestar Arms carbine-length pistol buffer tube.  The research I had done indicated that the longer buffer tube and spring was less prone to malfunction and required less fine-tuning to operate reliably.  This I picked up from another local gunshop, Gunslingers, in Kingsport, TN (a fantastic place for AR fans...  they have just about anything you could need or want).  I also swapped out the standard pistol buffer for an H2 buffer, as the data seems to show that 7.5" pistols run more smoothly with the heavier buffer.

Doublestar Arms Pistol Buffer Kit
(image courtesy of jsesurplus.com)

I also decided to go with the Magpul ASAP ambidextrous single-point sling adapter, which I picked up at Tri-Cities Gun Depot, as well.  I like how it allows the sling to move freely to either side of the weapon.

Magpul ASAP
(courtesy of del-ton.com)

To finish the upper, I ordered a pistol-length gas tube with roll pin, and a Yankee Hill Manufacturing Mini Free Float Tube Forearm from JSE Surplus.  Since I would not be adding a vertical fore grip (another NFA no-no), I decided against a railed handguard, and instead went with the more rounded tube from YHM, which is also very light-weight as well.

YHM Mini Free Float Tube Forearm
(image courtesy of galatiinternational.com)

For a barrel, I again chose Doublestar Arms, and ordered the 7.5" Heavy Profile Barrel with Forged Sight Base from J&T Distributing.  It did not come with a barrel nut (almost all 7.5" ARs are fitted with free float tubes... in fact, I do not know where you would find a standard 2-piece handguard that short), but has M4 feed-ramps, and you can choose to have it chrome-lined for an additional cost (I went without chrome-lining...  just a personal preference).

Doublestar Arms 7.5" AR Pistol Barrel
(image courtesy of jtdistributing.net)

One reason I went with the Doublestar barrel is that I had also picked up a Doublestar bolt carrier group and charging handle at Gunslingers.  I know that most reputable manufacturers turn out parts that meet the industry standard for specs, but I always like to get a barrel and BCG from the same company when I can.  Sticking with the "evil black gun" look, I chose the phosphated BCG, rather than a chrome group.

Doublestar Arms Bolt Carrier Group
(image courtesy of tacticalar15s.com)

And to finish it out, I decided to go with the Levang Linear Compensator as my muzzle device.  I have read a lot of good stuff about this comp from other pistol builders.  One of the issues with the AR15 pistol is that there is a LOT of unburned powder that makes it out the end of that short barrel, resulting in a tremendous muzzle flash, and the noise and concussive force produced by firing the gun can be overwhelming.  The Levang Linear Comp addresses this by directing this gas, noise, and force forward away from the shooter, thus making the gun more shootable.

Levang Linear Compensator
(courtesy of parallaxtactical.com)

Put all of these parts together, paracord wrap the pistol buffer tube for added comfort when getting a cheek-weld, throw in a Magpul 30 round P-mag,  and the end result is one pint-sized powerhouse - the AR15 pistol.

Say "Hello" to my little friend!!

I will update this post when I have a chance to get it out and shoot it.  Not looking for any sub-MOA groups with this little one, but I imagine it will be a BLAST at the range!!  And if there are any other AR pistol enthusiasts out there, tell me about your builds...  I would love to find out what your setups are.

Oh, and one final thought:  to all of the gun forum sages out there who are so quick to denigrate the AR pistol, the .500 S&W, the Barrett .50 caliber rifle, or any other firearm, as impractical, useless, excessive, or unnecessary...  these are the same arguments that those who would take away all of our guns have been using for years.  Let us not give these people any more ammunition by turning on one another.  Do I have a need for a .50 caliber Barrett?  No.  I would love to have one for the collection, but it will probably never happen for me (no offense, Ronnie...  you make wonderful guns, but I cannot afford to feed one).  But that does not mean that they should no longer be available to those who would have one.  Just like a two-seater convertible - practicality is not the end-all-be-all.  The Second Amendment says "shall not be infringed," so let us try our best to keep it that way.

Gun Review: Rossi Model 25 Princess .22LR Revolver

As a gun collector, I am constantly on the lookout for interesting, unusual, and uncommon pieces.  Now, do not get me wrong, I enjoy shooting, and therefor I put a premium on reliability and accuracy, but I also very much am interested in the history of guns as well, and I love firearms that are more than just your run-of-the-mill, everyone-has-one models.  Such as my Remington 878 Automaster, which I covered in a previous post...  it may not be worth a great deal in monetary value, but to me, it is valuable as a piece of Remington history, and thus of firearms history.  The same can be said of my military surplus rifles:  somewhere, sometime, someone trusted his life - and possibly his nation's survival - on these rifles.  Each arsenal repair, each little ding in the wood stocks, is part of a story, and I find that fascinating.

The Model 25 presentation case

Recently, I came into possession of another little piece of history.  And I do mean little.  It is the Rossi Model 25, a petite revolver chambered in .22LR.  Known as the "Princess," this tiny little pistol is quite beautiful with its bright nickel-finish.  The left side of the barrel is stamped "AMADEO ROSSI & CIA/SAO LAOPOLDO R.S." while the right sideplate is stamped "MADE IN BRAZIL" with the Rossi trademark and the importer marking "FIREARMS INT'L CORP/WASHINGTON, D.C."  The right side of the barrel is stamped ".22 L.R."  The serial number is stamped on the frame below the grip.

Just barely six and a half inches long, with a barrel length of two inches, the Princess is smaller than a grown man's hand (a 3-inch barrel version was also manufactured, designated the Model 13).  Despite its diminutive size, however, the Model 25 has a swing-out seven-shot cylinder with a manual ejector rod.  It is a single-action / double-action revolver, and while the trigger is quite stiff (I would estimate it at around fifteen pounds), it is smooth with no slop.  The brown plastic grips have some black marbling throughout, and they sport a round medallion (a la S&W) bearing the Rossi logo.  Actually, these are some of the nicer grips I have seen on Rossi revolvers.  The grip is very short, and leaves little room for a big hand...  this gun was definitely made with ladies in mind.

The Rossi Princess

Shown with a quarter for perspective

The frames of the Princess revolvers are die-cast of Zamak (or Zamac), sometimes disparagingly referred to as "pot metal."  Zamak is a zinc-aluminum-magnesium-copper alloy, which is actually quite strong, certainly for the frame of a .22LR revolver (Hi-Point Firearms uses Zamak for the slides on their centerfire pistols and carbines).  This results in quite a light weight pistol.


The Rossi Model 25 is a copy of the third model Smith & Wesson "Ladysmith," an M-frame revolver manufactured during the first two decades of the 20th century. The M-frame was the smallest hand-ejector frame made, and was used for the .22 Long, and was discontinued in the early 1920s.  Rossi, a Brazilian gun manufacturer (now a member of the Taurus family of firearms companies), resurrected this revolver concept, manufacturing the Model 25 for 28 years from the 50s through the mid-80s, with nearly a million of the little revolvers sold.  However, because of U.S. gun laws, primarily the 1968 Gun Control Act, relatively few Model 25s were imported into this country, all of them between the years 1965 through 1969.  It is getting more difficult to find these guns, especially in good condition.

Surprising amount of firepower for such a diminutive gun

Rossi, like its parent corporation Taurus, has a lot of detractors and, to be quite honest, not without good reason.  For a period of time during the 1980s, both companies suffered from poor quality control, turning out a large number of guns that had problems.  It does not take long for such inattention to sour consumers to a product line, especially when the primary purpose for many of these products is personal defense.  However, the early guns manufactured by both Rossi and Taurus were of quite good quality (and I understand that both companies are doing much better recently, trying to address the QC issues).  The Princess is just such a gun.  The internal parts are well-made, the cylinder lock-up is tight with no play.  The timing on the cylinder is spot-on as well, with no chamber misalignment.  It is simply a nice, tight little revolver, especially when it is compared to a lot of the other inexpensive revolvers that were being imported around the same time (Rohms, for example, which were notorious for being poor-quality).  Not too shabby for a gun that originally sold new for between $35 and $40 at your local Ace Hardware (recently these revolvers have sold for as much as $250 - $350 on GunBroker and other sites...  I call that a good return on an investment!).

One thing I have noticed, however, is that when shooting .22LR cartridges, you can get a bit of powder-flash coming from between the cylinder and the forcing cone (no lead shavings like that old Rohm used to shower me with, though).  This does not happen with .22 Shorts or .22 Longs, and I have to wonder if it is due to the newer hypervelocity .22LR cartridges being so much more powerful than the .22LR cartridges of the mid-Sixties.  I will try some sub-sonic loads soon to see if that makes a difference.  Accuracy with various loads has been quite good for a short barreled revolver.  This one is definitely a keeper.

If you have a Rossi Model 13 or 25, and have any more information on this gun, please leave a comment below.  Let me know what ammunition your Princess likes, and how well it is holding up.  There is not a lot out there on these revolvers (thanks to Ed Buffaloe at unblinkingeye.com for a great write-up, and the various gun fora from which I have gleaned some nuggets of wisdom), so anything you might have to add would be appreciated.

For more information on Rossi:

http://www.rossiusa.com/

Gun Review: Metro Arms American Classic Commander 1911 .45ACP

For those of you who have been following this blog, you know that back in March of last year, I posted a review of the Metro Arms American Classic II 1911, which at the time I gave high marks.  More than a year later, my opinion of this pistol has not changed.  It continues to perform flawlessly (after having changed out the magazine catch, which I described in a post in June of 2011), and I am well pleased with this firearm.  Pleased enough, in fact, to purchase another Metro Arms 1911...  this time, the American Classic Commander.

Metro Arms American Classic Commander

As you may well know, the Commander is a somewhat shorter version of the American Classic II.  The latter is a full-sized, or ""government," model, having a full 5-inch barrel with an overall length of 8.375 inches, and weighing in at 37.28 ounces empty.  The Commander has a slightly shorter 4.25 inch barrel for an overall length of 7.5 inches, and a weight of 35.2 ounces.  Not a whole lot of difference.  In fact, the two models use the same magazines interchangeably.  Both have the same grip length, and the controls are placed in the same locations on the pistols, so muscle memory is not affected by switching from one pistol to the other the way it would be with a similar gun with a smaller form factor (like a compact 1911, or a Sig P238, for example).

The particular American Classic Commander that I chose was the deep blue model, which I purchased from my favorite local gun shop, Tri-Cities Gun Depot.  Unlike the ACII, which is the hard chrome model, my Commander has a rich, dark blued finish.  The bluing seems very even, without any noticeably light spots.  One thing I have noticed, though, since I have had the pistol, and something that has been mentioned on the firearms fora I frequent, is that manipulating the thumb safety has left some scratches in the bluing under the safety, as though there might be a burr or rough spot on the underside of the safety lever.  There was also a very light scratch under the slide-release when I first disassembled the pistol (the proverbial "idiot scratch"), I am assuming from the factory.  Neither of these are deal-breakers for me, especially considering this is going to be a carry gun (provided it meets my reliability requirements) and therefor will be subject to much wear, but I would have preferred a little better QC on this front.

Shown with 8-round ACT mag, 7-round flush fit mag not included

For the most part, this particular pistol seems as well-made as the Classic II.  All of the parts seem well-fitted.  Like the ACII, this model comes with the extended slide-stop, extended magazine release, full beavertail, and extended thumb safety.  The grip safety is a bit more loosely fitted than that of the ACII, but it is not loose enough that it rattles.  The thumb safety engages positively, the trigger is smooth and has very little take-up (it is fitted with an over-travel adjustment screw, too), and the magazine catch engages easily and releases the magazines freely.  The slide to frame fit is also very tight, but not so tight that it drags and causes feeding issues.  Also, like the ACII, the wood grip panels that come with the Commander are nothing to write home about.  Functional, but not fancy.  One thing I will point out is that should you desire to change the grips, the oversized controls may necessitate some minor alteration of the replacement grip panels to allow them to fit without interfering with the operation of the thumb safety and slide release.

Thus far, using four different magazines, I have fired one hundred seventy rounds through the Commander, and I have had one failure during that time.  The ACT magazine that comes with the Commander is the same 8-round mag that is sold with the Classic II, and I had no issues using that magazine.  Likewise, my Springfield, Colt, and Kimber 7-round magazines have thus far been flawless with this pistol.  The one failure to feed that I have experienced has been with a flush-fit 8-round Triple K magazine, and that was with the second round during the first time I used that particular magazine.  Subsequent uses did not result in similar failures, so I am chalking that one up to magazine break-in.  I have only fired 100 rounds of Blazer Brass and 50 rounds of PMC Bronze 230 gr. FMJ rounds, and 20 rounds of Hornady Custom 185 gr. XTP JHP through the pistol at this time (the single FTF was with the ball ammo).  Thus far, it looks as though the factory magazine catch is working well, so perhaps Metro Arms has addressed that particular issue.

Accuracy has been very good.  Out of the box, my point of impact was about four inches to the left at 50 yards, consistently.  The Commander, like the ACII, has adjustable 3-dot Novak-type sights, so this was easily and quickly remedied.  Recoil is stronger than with the 5" model, enough that it is noticeable, but still not enough to be uncomfortable.  These pistols are just a lot of fun to shoot.

I have been well-pleased with the Metro Arms Commander up to this point.  I will continue to post updates if anything changes, but it looks as though this company is continuing to manufacture and market an excellent line of firearms.  And at an excellent price point...  this particular gun is in the sub-$500 range, but runs like a top of the line model.  I think JMB would be happy.

Knife Review -- Kershaw Leek 1660BB Spring Assisted-Opening Pocket Knife

Pocket knives are somewhat of a passion of mine.  Like guns, I own several knives, because each one is unique:  different blades for different purposes, and each one has its own story behind it.  I rarely am without a knife, provided I am not in a location where they are prohibited (planes, courtrooms, schools, etc.)  I can still remember the first knife I ever had:  it was a cheap little University of Tennessee Vols keychain knife given to me by my great uncle.  One tiny little knife blade and a file, practically useless as far as knives go, but in the hands of a child (I was 10 at the time...  a bit young, perhaps, by today's standards, but not unusual at the time) it might as well have been Excaliber.  I carried it with me for a long time, well after the paint had worn off of the handles, until it finally gave up the ghost as I was trying my hand at some whittling.  There have been dozens of knives after that one, but, as they say, you never forget your first.

Pocket knives were an essential tool carried by every male member of my family growing up.  On the farm, one could expect to need a knife at some point nearly every day.  Cutting baling twine, stripping wires, peeling an apple, paring down a replacement axe-handle, using it as an impromptu screw driver...  you just felt naked without a knife in your pocket.  And I can remember most of those knives, the Old Timer my father carried, the Case knife my grandfather favored, the Uncle Henry my cousin Harry kept in his pocket, well-worn after years of use (and abuse), the blades may have been scratched, but were still kept razor sharp.

Today is no different.  I use a pocket knife at work nearly ever day.  And while I have experimented with several different knives throughout the years - everything from Swiss Army knives (during my Scouting days as well as my MacGyver obsessed period) to big Buck lockbacks I wore in a leather sheath on my belt - the "perfect" pocket knife has eluded me.  That is, perhaps, until now.  I believe I might have found a contender for that particular title in the Kershaw Leek.

I have never owned a Kershaw blade before.  I had of course heard of the brand, and had seen their displays at knife shops and outdoor stores, but had never given them much of a second glance.  This knife really came to my attention, however, when I viewed a YouTube video review on the Leek by user LbrtyNJustice4All.  I liked the look of the knife, and I liked some of the features which she pointed out, so I decided to take a closer look at it.  And of course I ended up buying one (from a local knife shop here in town called Tri-City Knife Works...  if you live in the Tri-Cities area of East TN, give them a visit, they have a lot of really nice knives and accessories there, and the service is excellent).

Made in the USA

First things first:  Kershaw is, as you can see, made in the USA.  Now, I am not a drum-beater for all things USA.  I have owned several knives, guns, cars, tvs, etc., that have been made overseas and were excellent items, but I do like to support American businesses when I can...  and when their products are worthwhile.  And the Kershaw Leek that I bought seems very well-made.  It also comes with a limited lifetime warranty, and it also has free lifetime sharpening:  when you need a new edge, you may simply pack the knife up and ship it to Kershaw and they will sharpen it for you.  All you pay is the shipping to the facility.

The particular blade that I purchased is the 1660-BB, which is the designation for the Blue-Black Assisted Opening Linerlock.  It is also known as the "Blue Smoke"  Leek, as the blue and black anodized aluminum handles are not shiny, but matte, giving a little better grip than the slick stainless handles some of the other models use.

The Kershaw Leek  is 4" long closed, has a 3" blade (actually, 2 7/8" by my measurement), and is just shy of 7" long when opened.  It is 1" wide at its widest point, 3/8" thick at its thinnest point, and 1/2" thick at its thickest point (at the pocket clip).  It weighs a modest 2.4 oz.  This knife disappears in my front pocket.  It is quite a bit thinner than most knives I am used to, and I have big hands, so that may take some adjusting to.

The blade protrusion seen just above the clip provides an alternative to the thumb studs for opening.

The pocket clip is very strong, and it is reversible in that you may switch it so that it is carried either tip up, or tip down.  The knife uses the standard torx screws that have become so popular with knife makers of late, and only two such screws are used to attach the pocket clip.

Razor sharp and a needle-like point

The Leek is a Ken Onion design, and his name is etched on the blade (rather than on the handles like previous models).  The blade is made of Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel, and has a bead blast finish.  This particular knife has a smooth blade from tip to base, unlike the partially-serrated knives that are so popular now.  It tapers to a needle-like point, and the blade comes from the factory razor sharp.

As noted above, this particular model is a linerlock, and I have found that each time the blade is opened, the lock is positively engaged, securing the blade.  The linerlock is also very easy to manipulate, making the knife  truly a one-hand open, one-hand close pocket knife (for those of us with large hands, I suppose).  The Leek uses Kershaw's SpeedSafe assisted opening technology, which makes it one of the fastest and smoothest operating assisted openers I have ever used.  The blade is fitted with ambidextrous thumb studs which may be used to flick the blade open, but it also comes with a blade protrusion that sticks out of the base of the handle which may be pressed in to release the blade (this is my preferred method of opening).  Once the resistance of the torsion bar that holds the blade closed is overcome, this knife simply leaps open.

Point-block safety keeps the knife closed in your pocket

One other innovation I found interesting is the safety "switch" that Kershaw includes on this model.  It is basically a screw that is captured in a small channel on the tip-end of the handle.  The screw is fitted such that it has free movement back and forth in the channel, and moving the screw moves a slender plastic bar back and forth over the blade tip.  When the safety is engaged, the bar blocks the blade tip from rising, thus preventing the knife from opening.  Simply pushing the screw forward in the channel frees the blade tip and the knife may be opened.  Users with small hands may find the placement of the safety mechanism awkward, but I have found that I can easily manipulate the safety with my ring finger while using my index finger to release the blade.

All-in-all, I have found this to be a great little knife.  The blade is just the right length, it is flat, light, and feels good in the hand.  The one possible detraction I have found is that the blade tip is very fine, and not designed for prying or heavy use.  But if it breaks because I have been using it improperly, then that is my fault, not the knife's.  This would be a great EDC knife for self-protection, as it is very quickly deployed, and it is razor sharp, and that tip would easily penetrate clothing.  And it is a good deal for the price.  This particular knife has a list price of $74.95, but they can be found quite a bit cheaper.  I bought mine for $44.95, and while I could have saved a couple of bucks by getting it from Amazon or another online retailer, I like helping local businesses like Tri-City Knife Works when I can (by the way, I bought the last one they had in stock, but they will probably be getting more in soon).

So, if you are in the market for a new knife, be sure to check out the Kershaw Leek, or any of their other offerings (they have several different lines of great looking knives).  I think you will like what you see.

P.S.  Thanks to LbrtyNJustice4All for turning me on to this knife!